Reader Question: Mixing Old and New Cabinets

THE BRYANT HOUSE

Well it’s time to answer the final part of Miyuki’s reader question about the Bryant House kitchen: mixing old and new cabinets.

Here’s a quick reminder on what she asked:

“My husband and I own a small home in LA, and looking to remodel our kitchen.  I love what you did on the Bryant house kitchen and I’m wondering if you can tell me about how much it ran you and in general, how do you budget for a kitchen remodel?

“We have a galley kitchen with very poor storage space.  Our cabinets are old, but I think we can salvage some of them so long as we can find a way to make the new ones match the old which is why I like what you did with the Bryant house.  Was it hard to make the cabinets somewhat match each other?

“And using butcher block is exactly what I want to do in ours too (my husband thinks I’m crazy).  Is Maple the standard wood you would go with, or would you suggest other wood qualities to consider?”

I strive to keep as much of the original home in tact as possible when doing a remodel – for both charm and cost reasons.  So whenever there are solid wood floors, a cast iron sink, or great original cabinets, I say keep them.  Of course this can get a little tricky. Old cabinets are usually only 20″ deep (instead of modern 24″ deep cabinets), which is too shallow for a dishwasher.  The countertops are usually placed lower than the current day 36″ standard height and uppers tend to be so close to lowers that you can’t always fit a coffee maker in between.  So let me say it again.  If there are great original cabinets in your kitchen, I say keep them…if they don’t interfere with the goals of your kitchen reno.

The Grit and Polish - Original 1926 Cabinets with New Clamshell Pulls.jpg.jpg

We were able to accomplish this at the Bryant house when we saved the old cabinet bank on the south wall of the kitchen.  These cabinets feel like a built-in hutch and luckily were built without appliances or plumbing, so we were able to keep the original charm without making them work with modern-day dimensions.  And how great is that window sitting smack-dab in the middle, letting in oodles of natural sunlight?!

The Grit and Polish - Bryant House Original Cabinets

The west and north walls of the kitchen, however, were full of flimsy, cheap cabinets from a mid-century remodel with a layout that didn’t work for us – and couldn’t have really worked for anyone, ever.

Original Kitchen Photo

We designed custom cabinets for the ‘L’ shaped kitchen, and removed the wall to the right of the kitchen (see above photo) that separated the dining space from the kitchen, letting in even more natural light into the space.  

The Grit and Polish - White and Bright Kitchen Renovation at the Bryant house.jpg

To integrate the new cabinets with the old, we had a cabinet builder replicate the door and face dimensions of the original cabinets.  To keep the new cabinets from looking too ‘new’, we hand-painted them leaving brush strokes in the finish like those seen on any original cabinets – after all, they didn’t have paint sprayers in 1926.  We also added the same butcher block countertops and hardware to both the new and old cabinets.  I’m pretty happy with the results!  Although the new and old cabinets are noticeably different (perhaps not on your first glance, but definitely on your second), they don’t scream mis-matched.  Plus keeping all those old cabinets kept our renovation costs down, which should always be a kitchen reno goal!

What do you guys think?  Would you ever keep any of the original details during a kitchen renovation?

xoxo

-Cathy

p.s. A bit of whimsy in Nashville.

p.p.s. Mint Milano cookies were a staple of my childhood.  I’m embarrassed to admit that my sister and I could down a bag of those in a evening.  Needless to say I can’t wait to try this homemade version!

p.p.p.s. Check out this cool house tour.

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Reader Question: Butcher Block Counters

THE BRYANT HOUSE

Last week I went through the Bryant House kitchen remodel budget with you guys in response to a reader question.  This week I’m going to continue to answer Miyuki’s question, but focus on our butcher block countertops.

the Grit and Polish - kitchen renovation with apron front sink and industrial faucet.jpg

Here’s a quick reminder on what she asked:

“My husband and I own a small home in LA, and looking to remodel our kitchen.  I love what you did on the Bryant house kitchen and I’m wondering if you can tell me about how much it ran you and in general, how do you budget for a kitchen remodel?

“We have a galley kitchen with very poor storage space.  Our cabinets are old, but I think we can salvage some of them so long as we can find a way to make the new ones match the old which is why I like what you did with the Bryant house.  Was it hard to make the cabinets somewhat match each other?

“And using butcher block is exactly what I want to do in ours too (my husband thinks I’m crazy).  Is Maple the standard wood you would go with, or would you suggest other wood qualities to consider?”

Well Miyuki, I love butcher block countertops!  I think of them as the DIY-preferred, budget-conscious countertop of choice for homeowners.  We installed them at our Bryant Houses and been very happy with the results. (We also installed them at our Wallingford House with a little less satisfactory results, mainly because we bought cheap butcher blocks from a big box store that didn’t hold up great, but more on that later.)

There’s a lot to consider when selecting the right butcher block so I called in a wood expert to give Miyuki some answers.

The Grit and Polish - Bryant House White Kitchen Renovaiton.jpg

Uncle Dougie (aka Doug Wirkkala of Hardwood Industries) is my brother-in-law and he’s been working in his family hardwood business pretty much his whole life. He’s our go-to wood guy and has helped us select butcher blocks, cutting boards, stair treads, and moldings with great results.

Uncle Dougie agreed to answer a few qustions to help Miyuki through the process of selecting a butcherblock (and persuading her husband wood is a good choice).  So read on for some great info on butcher blocks!

What species of wood would you recommend for someone looking for a beautiful and durable butcherblock countertop that is also budget-friendly? 

Maple is our most commonly sold butcher block.  It is priced well and performs well.  We offer it in two styles;  one we call “white” which is uniform in color made from all sapwood and the other we call “natural” which has more color variation due to a mix of sapwood and heartwood.  People seem to like some character in their wood because natural outsells the white.  

If Miyuki wants to use a local wood, are there any options native to the LA/California?

If you want something local, the best bet would be looking to Northern California / Southern Oregon.  You can get some Madrone, Claro Walnut or Western Maple that look cool and unique.  (Western Maple is also grown in Washington.)

What other butcher block properties should Miyuki think about?

Thickness:  The majority of butcher blocks we sell are 1-1/2” thick.  The thinner the butcher block, the cheaper they are, but you don’t want to go too thin as they can become unstable.  The other common sizes we run are 2-1/2” and 1-1/4” thick. 

Panel Type: There are two main types of butcher blocks: edge grain and end grain.  The look is drastically different between the two types, so it is worth thinking about.  Edge Grain is what most people think of when they think of butcher blocks, with the wood running horizontal along the length of the countertop (like at the Bryant House).  They are by far the more popular butcher block type and have great durability.  End Grain is less popular but definitely my favorite.  The wood runs vertical, so you literally see the end of the grain, often in a square pattern.  End grain costs more than edge grain (about double), but is more durable and will probably outlive its owner.  You often see thick end grain butcher blocks in chef’s kitchens because knives won’t dull as quickly on end grain butcher blocks.    

How should a homeowner prepare the butcher block for installation and use? And how should they maintain them? 

Butcher blocks are easy for homeowners to install and maintain themselves.  If you intend to cut directly on your butcher block, finishing is as follows: sand the butcher block with a 200/220 grit sandpaper until smooth, clean with a dry rag to remove sanding particles, then apply a butcher block oil product (a mixture of mineral oil and wax) with a clean towel.  The product I use at home is Howard Products Butcher Block Conditioner, which can be found at your local hardware store  When your butcher block countertop is new, you will need to repeat this weekly.  After four weeks or once you notice your butcher block stops soaking up the conditioner, you can maintain it monthly.  After a few months and once you get a feel for your particular butcher block, you can oil it as needed.

If you wish to seal your butcher block and never ever cut directly on the surface, you can use a standard conversion varnish.  I recommend calling in an expert at a local finish shop to do this work for you to ensure a perfectly smooth and lasting finish.  

Any ammunition for my reader in order to persuade her husband to use butcherblock countertops? 

In general, wood is an environmentally friendly renuable resource that sequesters carbon so you can feel good about the environmental impact of your purchase.  Our Maple butcher block countertops are grown, sawn, and manufactured in the United States.  The European Beech is grown in Germany and France where forestry practices are amongst the strictest in the world.  Even better we manufacture them from lumber to countertops in the Northwest.  Another great feature is they are easily cut and installed by the homeowner, which can be quite a cost savings.   

If money were no object, which butcherblock would you select for your own home?

For a US-grown wood, I’d choose Eastern Black Walnut in an end grain panel type.   It’s definitely an expensive option but absolutely beautiful!  For a more exotic look, I’d choose teak.  Teak is the best performing wood in the world, with natural oils and other properties that allow it to remain stable even when exposed to large humidity changes.  

Well there you have it, straight from the horse’s mouth, which is actually Doug’s mouth, in this case.  Those are the major things to chew on when thinking about butcher block countertops.

So let’s talk price.  Hardwood Industries sells butcher blocks for between $27 and $35 per square foot for basic options, which I’m sure is an average price for quality, custom hardwood distributers.  Yes, you can get them cheaper at Ikea, but they’re not nearly as beautiful or durable.  We actually installed Ikea butcher block in our Wallingford House (due to time constraints) and have been disappointed with how soft they are ever since.  Common daily wear has left them looking pretty bad.  Like anything else, you get what you pay for in countertops – I won’t use Ikea for butcher block again.

What about you guys?  Do you have butcher block countertops?  Would you ever put them in your kitchen?

xoxo

-Cathy

p.s. What makes a man (or future man) happy.  Turns out it’s got a lot to do with his mama.  I love this quote: “Happiness is love. Full stop.”

p.p.s. Who knew creating a design plan was so fun! (p.s. I want to work in Emily’s office!)

p.p.p.s. Peanuts in infancy are in (kinda)!  Is it just me or do food recommendations change like the tides?

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Reader Question: Kitchen Reno Costs

THE BRYANT HOUSE

I know you guys are going to be really surprised to hear this, but we’re still (STILL!) working on the backyard at the Ravenna House.  The shed is getting close-ish to being done and we’ve started planning a fence.  We’re also still waiting to hear from the lien-holders to find out if we got that mysterious new house I keep hinting at (we’ll call her fixer #4 for now).  So with nothing much by the way of progress to share, I thought it would be a good time to answer a reader question.

I received this question from Miyuki last week:

“My husband and I own a small home in LA, and are looking to remodel our kitchen.  I love what you did on the Bryant house kitchen and I’m wondering if you can tell me about how much it ran you and in general, how do you budget for a kitchen remodel? 

“We have a galley kitchen with very poor storage space.  Our cabinets are old, but I think we can salvage some of them so long as we can find a way to make the new ones match the old which is why I like what you did with the Bryant house.  Was it hard to make the cabinets somewhat match each other?

“And using butcher block is exactly what I want to do in ours too (my husband thinks I’m crazy).  Is Maple the standard wood you would go with, or would you suggest other wood qualities to consider?”

Great question, right?  Since it is such a detailed question, I’m going to split it into three parts and tackle one a day – today we’ll focus on budget.  But first let’s get reacquainted with the Bryant House kitchen reno.

The Grit and Polish - Bryant House White Kitchen Renovaiton.jpg

We completed this renovation in March 2013 when I was 6 months pregnant with Wilder.  It was a gut job besides keeping a wall of existing cabinets.  We added appliances, custom cabinetry, lighting, tile, fresh hardware, and painted everything.  You can read more about it here.  This is the finished product:

The Grit and Polish  Bryant House Kitchen Renovation with Subway Backsplash Floor to Ceiling.jpg
the Grit and Polish - White kitchen renovation with classic hardware.jpgThe Grit and Polish  Original 1926 Cabinets with New Clamshell Pulls.jpgthe Grit and Polish - kitchen renovation with built-in dining nook featuring West Elm lighting.jpg

I’ve said it before, but this kitchen/dining space is one of my favorite rooms that we’ve ever renovated.  It’s so light and bright and just plain happy.  We spent more time in this room than anywhere else at the Bryant House.  And I will always have such sweet memories of  holding 1-day-old Wilder at that table, introducing him to family and friends, as we drank coffee and ate apple cake.

Okay, now let’s get back to the topic at hand.  Money.  Luckily I kept really good records when we remodeled the Bryant House, which unfortunately is not a trend I continued at the Ravenna House.  I’m going to blame it on the birth of Wilder and the strange void which I used to call spare time.  Anyway, the Bryant House kitchen remodel cost us $9,700.  It was a 100% DIY job, so we didn’t pay for any labor.  We did get plenty of help from family, especially my father-in-law who happens to be an electrician and is cool with being paid in beer.  What is family for after all?!

Here’s what the cost breakdown looked like:

Custom Cabinets                $2,266
Appliances                           $2,875
Lighting                                $900
Vintage Table and Hutch  $640
Countertops                         $460
Tile and tool rental             $400
Electrical                               $248
Plumbing & Fixtures          $513
Building materials              $610
Misc (paint, etc)                  $788

Total                                      $9,700

The pair of sliding doors, which we installed ourself, were an additional $1,540.

Of course every renovation is unique and so is the budget.  It depends on your scope, how much work you plan to do yourself, and the level of finish.  Our budget for the Bryant House kitchen probably won’t work in 90% of kitchens.  I’ve read that the average kitchen remodel runs somewhere in the $15k-45k range.  Based on that, an average remodel breakdown would look more like this:

Cabinets                             $10,500
Labor                                  $6,000
Appliances                         $6,000
windows                             $3,000
Fixtures                              $1,500
Fittings                               $900
Other                                  $2,100

Total                                   $30,000

And then add contingency.  I usually use 10-15% of the total budget, but I’d recommend 20% for a novice renovator.  That would equal an additional $6,000, in this scenario.  If you don’t use it, great.  But I find that the unexpected always happens on an old-house remodel and it’s best to be prepared.

Back to Miyuki.  I think a $36,000 budget is a good place to start.  Yes, that’s a ton of money.  But you can subtract from there (or add if need be), based on size of the project, work you plan to do yourself and the how nice of finishes you’re planning.  Obviously we subtracted a lot in labor but didn’t have to scrimp on the finish level much (sure I’d love a pro-range, but we really didn’t need it).  Quality cabinets were really important to me, so we spent the extra money on custom shaker-style cabinets, but saved about 10% by painting them ourselves.  I also think we got a lot of “style mileage” out of the inexpensive white subway tile backsplash, installed floor to ceiling.  Renovations are about compromise, just make sure to keep your goals in tact!

What about you guys?  Any budget advice for Miyuki or feedback on our renovation?  I’d love to hear about it in the comment section below!

xoxo

-Cathy

p.s. “Children’s menus are the death of civilization.” An interesting look into the recent history of kids and food.

p.p.s. Did you guys know the Pioneer Woman renovated a commercial property?  It’s beautiful!

p.p.p.s. Have you guys seen Jersey Ice Cream Co’s renovation work?  I’m obsessed with these guys!

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The Bryant House Kitchen: Before and After

THE BRYANT HOUSE

I want to take you guys back…wayyyyy back…to 2012.  Back before Wilder was more than a little bean in my belly and we were just embarking on the renovation of our second old house. I’ve told you about the Bryant House before – how we moved into it on a whim and how leaving it was really sentimental for me – and now I want to show you one room in more detail: the kitchen.

The Grit and Polish - White and Bright Kitchen Renovation at the Bryant house.jpg

Back when we bought the Bryant house in November of 2012, the kitchen was dark, closed off, and inefficient.  Since we had earmarked the house as a rental, I had no intention of spending the money on a remodel.  So this is what the room looked like when we moved in January of 2013:

Original Kitchen PhotoOriginal Dining Photo

Not awful, but it sure wasn’t great (as you can tell from my disappointed expression).

Once we lived in the house for a couple of months we realized the closed-off space just didn’t work for us.  So the kitchen had to go.  We had the foresight to wait until I was really pregnant to tackle this renovation, which meant I sat out of the demo and all the heavy lifting – not a bad deal for me.

We gutted all but a small bank of original cabinets, removed the wall that closed off the dining space, and sold all the appliances on Craigslist. We added two sliding doors to capture the light and the territorial views.  Then we began putting the kitchen together – cabinets, backsplash, plumbing, electrical, appliances, and so on.  Once again, we did all the work ourselves.

The Grit and Polish - Bryant House White Kitchen Renovaiton.jpgthe Grit and Polish - kitchen renovation with stainless steel cart.jpgThe Grit and Polish  Bryant House Kitchen Renovation with Subway Backsplash Floor to Ceiling.jpgthe Grit and Polish - White kitchen renovation with classic hardware.jpgThe Grit and Polish - Original 1926 Cabinets with New Clamshell Pulls.jpg.jpgthe Grit and Polish - kitchen renovation with apron front sink and industrial faucet.jpg

These subway tile backsplash was a lot easier to install than the Ravenna Houses’s marble herringbone backsplash.  Mostly because they came on 12″x12″ sheets and didn’t require any diagonal cuts.

The Bryant House’s kitchen has new, custom cabinets with the exception of the the original bank of drawers and glass uppers that were in good enough shape to keep.  We selected maple butcher block countertops because it’s classic-looking, easy to DIY, and Uncle Dougie hooked us up with a good deal.  To keep the traditional look going, I used Martha Stewart hardware (here and here).

For the dining nook, we built in a storage bench with a cushioned top to maximize seating.  There was originally a cabinet over the bench, but we removed it to make space for open shelves.  The dining nook has windows or doors on three sides, making it the brightest spot in the house.

The Grit and Polish  Kitchen Renovation with 2 Sliding New Doors.jpgthe Grit and Polish - kitchen renovation with built-in dining nook featuring West Elm lighting.jpgThe Grit and Polish  Cozy Dining Nook with Pillows and West Elm Light.jpg

That chandelier is from West Elm – I have a thing for their lighting!  All the furniture is vintage except the armless chairs from Restoration Hardware Outlet.  The stainless steel cart can be found here and the industrial faucet here.

The Bryant House’s kitchen is probably my favorite renovation we’ve ever done, especially the dining nook.  It’s the brightest, coziest spot to relax in the morning with a cup of coffee or in the evening with a roudy crew for beer.  And I have a real sentimental attachment to this space since I spent so much time here with Wilder when he was just a wee-guy.  Oh I miss that kitchen.

What do you guys think?  Love it, hate it, over it…?  I’d love to hear 🙂

xoxo

p.s. I’m pretty obsessed with adaptive reuse and this army-administration-building-turned-home is a perfect example!  Bonus: it’s for sale!

p.p.s. What eating ice cream for the first time looks like.

p.p.p.s. We’ve been working on our backyard remodel at the Ravenna House.  I’m dreaming that our space turns out something like these…any one of them!

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Nostalgia and a Goodbye to the Bryant House

THE BRYANT HOUSE

IMG_7357

I was feeling nostalgic last Friday.  Maybe it was because we’re moving or maybe it was the sunny weather, but it hit me hard.  We were walking back to the Bryant House as the sun was going down, and miraculously for March in Seattle, there wasn’t a rain cloud in sight.  I walked in the front door, Wilder in the carrier on my chest, and I was taken back…

Back to summer.  Back to when Wilder was born, here in this very house.  Back to sipping beer with Garrett at the kitchen table in the afternoon. Back to those first weeks after Wilder was born doing nothing but holding him, and learning – learning about babies and patience and above all love.  Back to bare feet on the hardwoods.  Back to this kitchen and this dining table and the wingback chair where Wilder slept in my arms every day.  Back to those cribbage games on the back deck with Auntie Dayne and Uncle Adam.  Back to warm evenings and open doors and ice cream.  Back to Sunday night dinners with friends.   Back to True Blood and Falling Skies and Alphas on the couch with Garrett while we learned how to put Wilder to sleep, hour after hour.

IMG_8121

I will miss this house.  Mostly the memory of the summer we spent in it.  This house will always be the home that Wilder was born in. The home where we first met Uncle Adam.  The home where I watched Garrett become an amazing father.  The home where I fell head over heels in love with my son.  It’s only been 14 months since we moved in, but our lives are so much fuller now.  And I will always, always be thankful for the part this house played in that.

IMG_8016

So it’s on to the next.  We leave the Bryant House behind in the capable hands of renters and we move into the Ravenna House, this time as a family of 3 (plus Bubba).  I look forwards – oh do I ever – to the memories we will leave behind there someday.

Wish us luck!

xoxo

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DIY: How To Make Old Wood Drawers Slide Easier

THE RAVENNA HOUSE

Hi Guys – Well after a long and grueling Sunday of peeling blue tape off the roll and laying down plastic I have learned the meaning of prep.  And oh how I’ve grown to hate that word.  Prep.  Eeerrrr.  See, after a weekend of prepping the upstairs for paint, we didn’t even make it to the painting part.  So the Ravenna House is covered in a shroud of plastic.  And no paint. Not exactly the makings of beautiful painted wall pictures I was hoping to share with you today.
Here’s a progress shot of the window masking:
Yeah.  Anyway.  Let’s move on.  I’ll tell you all about the prep and the pain(t) sprayer another day when the words blue-tape and plastic don’t make me grind my teeth.
So let’s talk drawers.  All-wood. Easy-gliding. Smooth. Wonderful. Joyful drawers.  See I’ve been doing a lot of thinking lately about dressers and built-in-drawers of a certain age.  We’ve got a lot of those around here.  They look really nice.  And they are solid.  Plus they’ve lasted 80+ years so I know they’re well made.  But they are a real b^#*$ to open. They stick.  They grind. They take two strong hands to open.  Of course I can’t get rid of them or replace them with some cheap crap.  Cause that would be wrong.  That would cut me straight to the soul.
So, what to do.
Well it turns out that there’s an easy fix.  My years of frustration and ground teeth were all for not.  It could have been fixed with $0.90 and a trip to the drug store.  Let’s consider this my first DIY on the Grit and Polish blog.  Here I’ll make it official:
DIY: How To Make Old Wood Drawers Slide Easier
Cool. Ready?
For this DIY, I’m taking you over to The Bryant House. That’s where we live now. It’s a 1920 craftsman that has 2 bedrooms, a renovated bath and kitchen, and just 790sf of finished space.  Yeah, try fitting two full-grown-adults, an energetic 65-pound dog, and a baby plus their swings, bikes, and toys in 790sf! But that’s another post entirely.  Back to the drawers…
Step 1: Roll up your sleeves.  What’s that? You’ve got a baby tugging on your pant legs too? Well put him in the jumping johny.  Maybe toss a binky in there.  Okay, now roll up your sleeves.
We’ve got this.
Step 2: Pull out your drawers and arrange them so you can access the underside.
Now grab a bar of soap.  I used a classic bar of Ivory, because that’s just the kind of family we are.  But really any bar of soap will do.
Step 3: Rub said bar of soap across all wood sliding surfaces on the drawers and in the cabinet/dresser.  Don’t be shy – give it a good, strong rub.  This is one of those more is better situations.
Okay, that’s it!  Slide the drawer back into place and pick up the baby. We’re done!
That wasn’t so bad, right?  Give those drawers a try.  Better, right?  Yeah they’re not brand-new soft-close drawers, but they’re better, right!  And for $0.90 and 5 minutes, I’d say that’s pretty darn great!
What’s that?  You like the drawer hardware.  It’s a Martha Stewart classic and you can find it at your local Home Depot (here).
It’s a good thing I came across this solution (from The Farmers Nest here) when I did because I’ve got a lot more sticky drawers in my future.
Did you catch that?  Yeah, it’s a new dresser that I picked up on Craigslist for Wilder’s new nursery. Lot’s of soon-to-be-smooth drawers in this piece.  What’s that?  Oh you think she’s kinda dingy?  Well just hold on a sec (read: couple months).  Not sure if I’m going to paint her or give her a new coat of stain, but she’ll be looking lovely before you know it!
xoxo
p.s. It’s been electronic anarchy around this household.  First our MacBook Air crapped out (she’s still in the shop), then I dropped my iPhone into the toilet.  Before I flushed.  Too much information?  Yeah, I thought so.  Anyway, no phone for a week.
p.p.s. I’m secretly digging the way the blue tape and plastic looks in the windows.  So graphic and ethereal.  Of course I’ll be digging a fresh coat of paint even more…
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A Lesson in Procrastination

THE RAVENNA HOUSE

Hi All!  Well I learned an important lesson this week.  

When you design a kitchen around a certain sink, buy that sink right away. Just do it. Immediately.  Because if you sit on your laurels and twiddle your thumbs, when you finally do get around to buying that sink, it may just be out of stock.  

I’m just saying.  

At the Ravenna House we planned on using Ikea’s Domsjo single-bowl, apron-front sink in the kitchen (here).  It’s cheap, classic, and deep as an ocean. And just like we did at our Bryant House, we were going to undermount it.  Like so:


Undermount Domsjo Sink | The Bryant House

It took a little brain power to design the sink base cabinet at the Bryant House.  There were a couple good tutorials on the web (I checked out what Jessie and Rick did here.)  And this is the detail of the sink base cabinet we developed:


The Domsjo is only $189.  It’s a good $200 cheaper than any other apron-front sink I have found, so it was worth the effort of a custom cabinet.  So when we it came to designing the kitchen at the Ravenna House, there was no question, we were going to use the same sink.  I had a carpenter build the same cabinet and then we painted it and installed it.  But I didn’t pick up the sink right away.  Not sure why.  I just didn’t.  And what do you know, when I finally checked last week, Ikea is out of stock.  And they had no idea when they’d get in more.

So, what next?

I freaked out!  

But only for a second.  Because what is a renovation really without problems? Kinda boring.  So I pulled it together and looked on Amazon and found a lovely, in-stock, undermount, apron-front sink that will be at our house on Wednesday (here).    

And although it’s an inch shorter than the Ikea sink, we should…no we WILL be able to make it fit.  Have faith, people!  It will be lovely

So what’s the lesson?  Don’t wait or it will cost you $200.  Bam!  Whoever said good-things-come-to-those-who-wait were clearly misguided.  

Has something like this ever happened to you?  Come on, I can’t be the only one!  

xoxo

p.s. I watched this awesome 12-minute Ted Talk on happiness and work this week (here).  Thanks for tweeting it, Ivanka Trump.  Kinda random, I know, but it’s so awesome I had to share!

p.p.s. I bought something for the kitchen that I said I wouldn’t.  It’s white, gray, and beautiful all over.  Hint, hint…



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