Our Hill House Nickel Gap Wall Paneling (Design + DIY Tips)
THE HILL HOUSE
One of the biggest transformations in our Hill House renovation to date has been the wall paneling. When we first moved in, the upstairs walls were covered in 1970s faux paneling and it wasn’t doing the house any favors. Over the past year, we’ve heavily renovated this space (new insulation, skylights, HVAC, electrical, updated bathrooms, and a reworked layout), and we knew it would be easy for it to end up feeling like a plain sheetrock box, something we desperately wanted to avoid.
Enter, paneling! It felt like the right way to bring back character, texture, and a sense of history to this 1910 home. And now that it’s finished, it’s easily one of my favorite details upstairs! Today we’re sharing the full story - the design inspiration, dimensions, layout decisions, exact product we used, and a few lessons we learned along the way. Let’s get into it…
light fixture, floors, paint colors throughout, paneling (linked below)
The Paneling Design (And Why We Chose It)
Our paneling design was inspired by projects from architect Gil Schafer III, whose interiors always feel timeless and traditional. I own all three of his books (this one and this one are my favorites) and reference them constantly when we’re working through details like paneling and trim. What really stood out to us in some of Gil’s projects was the mix of panel orientations - horizontal boards on the lower wall and vertical above. It felt historic and fresh (my favorite combination!) and just right for the Hill House. So we used:
Vertical nickel gap paneling above
Horizontal paneling below
A simple horizontal trim rail separating the two
This combination creates just enough architectural rhythm without feeling busy. It also solves a few practical challenges:
Vertical boards help the sloped ceilings feel taller
Horizontal boards add visual weight lower on the wall
Pine boards lend durability to a kid space that will be heavily used
The overall effect feels layered, calm, and very livable - exactly what we were after.
Paneling Dimensions (so you can recreate it)
Even with the basic design in mind, the final dimensions took us some time to nail down. We started with a mock up, played around with dimensions and scale until it felt just right for our space. We have short 7’ ceilings up here so the design had to feel cozy and not grand. Here’s where we landed…
Here are the materials we used (listed in actual dimensions). We sourced the linked materials from Home Depot and everything else locally at our lumber store.
a - 1 1/2” x 1/2” round-over laid over the shiplap as crown (3/4”x1 1/2" installed on ceiling abutting the round-over to finish the crown)
c - 1 1/8” square (S4S) with front corners gently softened with router (using 3/16” radius round-over bit)
e - 1 1/4” x 7/16” tall parting bead (bullnose)
f - 3/4”x4 1/2” base, built out 1/2” from paneling
Proportions really matter. And what worked upstairs at the Hill House won’t necessarily work in someone else’s house (or downstairs at the Hill House for that matter). Old houses are more of an art than a science - embrace the uniqueness and take the time to get the design right for your space.
A few guiding principles we followed:
👉 Base the design on an inspiration image
We liked Gil Schafer’s work from this book and this book. Starting with an inspiration image really helps guide you into a good end product.
👉 Do a mockup
Get a couple pieces of the products you’re considering, and clamp/tape/temp them in place. Play around, step back, him and haw, and adjust until it feels just right. We did this process way back in the Fall (before we refinished the floors) and here’s what it looked like…
We started with a fairly basic setup and then added the parting bead and crown detail. After leaving this next iteration up for a few days, we felt ready to move ahead with it.
👉 Start with the golden ratio
General design looks good in thirds so we started with a horizontal wainscot that took up 1/3 of the wall and vertical panels for 2/3. In the end, that felt a little short on the bottom so we brought the wainscot up to about countertop height (3’) and that felt good.
The goal wasn’t perfection. It was making it feel like it had always been here.
The Nickel Gap Paneling We Used
We used Arauco Nickel Gap boards, which we found at Home Depot. These are pre-primed, pine boards with a small built-in spacer that creates a consistent nickel-sized gap between each board.
Why we liked them:
Consistent spacing (huge time saver!)
Pre-primed and paint-ready
Smooth, clean finish
Readily available mid-project
Easy to install, each board simply overlaying the next
We originally found these while sourcing materials and reached out to Arauco to partner on an Instagram Reel, but this post isn’t sponsored.
Bottom line: this is a really solid, accessible product that worked beautifully for this application.
Where We Used Paneling
We carried this paneling throughout most of the upstairs:
Hallway
Landing / snug
Bathrooms
Daphne’s bedroom (installed horizontal wainscot only)
In some areas it’s installed over framing and insulation, and in others directly over drywall. One of my favorite parts about our paneling is how it continues across walls, slopes, and ceilings. Instead of awkward drywall transitions, everything feels cohesive and intentional. This is a great way to make small spaces feel more expansive.
sconce (aged brass, Matte Dark Slate shade), faucet (polished nickel), sink, outlet cover (unlaquered brass), floor tile, skylight, paint
Installation Notes (What We Learned)
A few things to know before you install paneling like our’s….
1. Old Houses Are Not Level (Start Accordingly)
When installing horizontal boards, we always started from the lowest point in the room and worked upward. We shaved boards slightly as needed to keep the base level. If you follow the floor line exactly, your paneling will slowly drift and you’ll notice it.
2. PLan on extra time for fill and caulk
Shiplap install means face nailing each panel and the filling and sanding prior to paint. Plus where the vertical boards meet the horizontal trim, each joint creates a small corner that needs to be carefully caulked and finished. It felt like the job that would never end! Plan extra time here.
3. Paneling Works Beautifully on Sloped Ceilings
This ended up being one of the biggest wins. Running boards along the slope creates clean, continuous lines and avoids the patchwork look drywall can sometimes create in attic spaces. Rather than struggle with perfectly cut angles at the intersection of the angled walls with the vertical wall and ceiling, we covered the joint with a small piece of trim. Saved a ton of time!
4. Paneling can be Installed Over drywall or instead of it
Paneling can be installed both overtop of existing drywall OR in place of drywall (directly onto framing). We did both applications here. Note that depending on your design and wall framing, you may need to install additional blocking to nail the paneling to.
5. this is a user-friendly diy
Garrett would like you to know that when it comes to wall finishes, paneling is DIY friendly! With basic carpentry skills and fairly simple tools, anyone can put up paneling and get a beautiful result (just don’t skimp on the wood filler and caulk!). The same can’t be said for drywall, which requires a fair amount of skill to do well.
6. paneling is budget-friendly
When compared to drywall, paneling is right in there budget-wise. At the Hill House, we hired Edward to drywall the three bedrooms upstairs, costing us $3000 in labor and materials (and yes, hiring out drywall is always worth it!). The paneling would cost 2/3 of that when installed by us. Personally, we like paneling better.
Why Wall Paneling Works So Well in Old Homes
Wall paneling is one of those elements that instantly adds depth and character and works especially well in spaces that have been heavily renovated like our 1970’s upstairs.
It helps:
Soften transitions between surfaces
Hide minor imperfections
Add durability to walls
Create architectural interest without overly ornate trim
In our case, it helped the upstairs feel like it belongs in a 1910 Craftsman, even though much of it is newly rebuilt.
How Paneling Works With Trim
One thing we paid close attention to was how the paneling interacted with the rest of the trim. For the most part, we thought of the paneling equivalent to the sheetrock layer on the wall and cased and trimmed accordingly. For us, that meant:
Furring out the baseboards
Adding a crown detail over top of the paneling (bonus: it hides the top edges of the paneling, meaning less precise cuts)
Adding 5/4” plinth blocks that sit proud of the base
Simple window and door casings that sit proud of the paneling and look similar to the original 1910 moldings downstairs
In the end, the paneling and trim come together to look cohesive and feel just right.
It’s also worth noting that not every room upstairs is paneled. In the spaces we drywalled, the base and crown help bridge the transition so everything still feels cohesive. We topped the base with a simple detail piece we found at our lumber store that references the original 1910 moldings downstairs (and we used the same piece as a top rail on Daphne’s wainscot - repetition is good!).
doorknob (unlaquered brass), paint colors
The Finished Look
Now that everything is painted, the upstairs feels calm, bright, and cohesive.The paneling adds just enough detail to keep things interesting without competing with the skylights, chimney, or fir floors. And compared to where we started… it’s a completely different space.
Is Wall Paneling Just a Trend?
We’ve started seeing this type of paneling (with horizontal below vertical paneling) show up more and more - in design projects, catalogs, and historic renovations alike. But unlike trend-driven details, this feels rooted in something more lasting. Simple, well-proportioned wall paneling has been used in homes for generations - and when done well, it never goes out of style.
Would We Do It Again?
Absolutely!
This is one of those projects that adds real character, feels hisotircaly appropriate, and is relatively approachable as a DIY. It quietly elevates everything around it. And honestly, it’s the kind of detail I now wish we’d added in more of our past renovations.
